Hook up ammeter gauge,
If the alternator can overcome this,then the current being pushed to the battery will register a charge on the ammeter. Also the wire gauges specified are way too low.
With the vehicle off,turn on the headlamps,and the ammeter should swing towards discharge. Sorry for the long post,but I wouldn't want to see someone ruin their truck over something like this.
They are also alot safer as not all that amperage is running through the vehicle.
Basically,if the vehicle needs more power than the alternator can put out,it will pull it back through the ammeter and show discharge. If some of your loads come off the battery,or starter solenoid post like most vehicles ,then this will not work.
I would also recommend a large maxi fuse or fusible link,or one of those fancy stereo fuse holders,using a fuse rated about 20 amps higher than your alternator. An ammeter must have all the current the vehicle uses except starter running through it to read it properly.
If you connect it between the alt and batt it may only read alt output and not show discharge. Then using another piece of 6 or 8 gauge,run a wire from the alternator positve to the little black plastic junction terminal on the firewall beside the wiper motor ,and connect it and all the wires you pulled from the starter solenoid.
It should now swing the right way.
If you have any acc's ie: The best way to do it,if it's on your 85 Chevy truck,is pull off the starter solenoid nut,and remove all the wires except the battery cable.
Now try it out. Pull them up through to the top of the engine and remove that stupid steel heat shield tube they run through. To have it work correctly,you have to have the ammeter between the alternator and all the acc loads.
If wired correctly an ammeter is a very useful tool. Hence the reason for shunted type ammeters. This will prevent a huge fire,if the wiring or alternator or ammeter short out.
Start the Hook up ammeter gauge and rev it up a bit,and it should swing towards the charge side.
If you don't have a junstion block,then put one there. Consider adding some really good protetive covering over all this wirng,and always use solder and heatshrink,as butt connectors without soldering CANNOT handle this kind of current flow.
If you have a lot of stuff,consider increasing the wire size for you jumper and ammeter wiring to a 4 gauge,just to be safe,and make sure the ammeter you have is rated for high amperage. Turn on every thing electrical,and with the engine at about RPM,it should be right in the middle,or slighlty on the charge side.
If wired incorrectly,it may cause more problems than it is worth. Fine for an older vehicle putting out 30 amps,but not most newer ones. If all your power wires for the vehicle are coming off of the alt then it will work fine in between the alt and battery.
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